ESTABLISHING A HOME
1900-1976

Establishing a Home

In 1910, the government of Canada implemented a new Immigration Act that barred immigrants into Canada from races deemed “undesirable.” Few African descent immigrants entered Canada for the next few decades. 

In 1955, the west Indian Domestic Scheme permitted single women aged 18-35 and in good health to work in Canada for one year before being granted permanent residency. Over 2600 women were admitted under this system. In 1967, the government of Canada did away with this racially discriminatory scheme, after which African descent immigration rose dramatically.

The year is 1921: Vancouver has survived the Spanish Flu pandemic, the Great War has ended and Prohibition is about to be over in BC. With a small population to begin with, only a few hundred African Descent families in Vancouver, the community had to be tight in order to survive. Vancouver’s historic African Descent population was concentrated around Strathcona, or the “East End.” 

It was where the working class and immigrants would live together – Chinese, Italians and Blacks, to name a few, occupied the area. Due to discrimination, the only job that many could get was that of sleeping car porter, and so Strathcona also became a convenient place to settle due to its proximity. 

As Vancouver became the economic centre of Canada’s pacific, more people came to live and work. There were namely two immigrant streams that made up Vancouver’s African Descent population. The first wave were those who came to Victoria via San Francisco upon Governor James Douglas’ invitation, and then made their way to Vancouver. One such famous name was that of Fielding William Spotts. The second wave came from Oklahoma via Alberta, in response to advertising campaigns by Canada’s Immigration Department. The government attracted the homesteaders, advertising land that could be bought for $1 an acre, but failed to mention that this land had not been ceded by the Indigenous populations living there. Although they left the states in order to find freedom from the oppressive Jim Crow laws, many still didn’t find luck in Alberta, as they faced discrimination from caucasian as well Indigenous peoples. 

This is the story of how these people and families united, becoming established and flourished during a small period, until their displacement under the guise of “urban renewal.”

After its humble beginnings at Josephine Sullivan’s kitchen, Nora Hendrix, the famed guitarist’s grandmother, took the helm and began holding fundraising suppers and charity bazaars in order to purchase a building. The dream is realized when the congregation is able to purchase the First Scandinavian Lutheran Church at 823 Jackson Avenue and establish the African Methodist Episcopal Church – Fountain Chapel (AME).

As the AME became the religious and spiritual centre of Vancouver’s African descent population, it was only natural that it also became the hub for social activity and thus recognized as the heart of the community. Throughout the years, the AME’s parishioners, which at one point numbered 300, organized to: 

  • form a choir, which toured local churches and performed at the Avenue Theatre;
  • combat racial bigotry by fighting that former railway porter Fred Deal’s death sentence be reduced to a life sentence after being accused of murdering a police constable and being beat up while in custody;
  • demand an inquiry into the beating and death of longshoreman Clarence Clemons, who was arrested for loitering, and;
  • gather the African Descent youth of the area and conduct youth outreach and engagement.

Park Lane was the official name for the T-shaped intersection that ran between Prior Road and Jackson Avenue, and Main and Union Streets. However, its unofficial name came to be Hogan’s Alley. 

How could such a small area hold such a concentration of life? This is the most powerful strength of this vibrant place. It helps to know what surrounded this area as well: on one end was the AME – Fountain Chapel Church, and close by was the Pacific Central Station (the terminus for the Canadian Pacific Railway), which is where most Africana Descent men were employed. Coupled with the fact that there were discriminatory policies around the city that made it difficult for African Descent people to move anywhere beyond the East End, Hogan’s Alley became a natural place to settle. 

The neighbourhood was a collection of shacks, cottages and southern-style “chicken house” restaurants, many of which doubled as speakeasies. The residential quarters of the Brotherhood of Sleeping Car Porters was also located there. It was a place where on one side, there were brothels and illegal gambling dens, and on the other side there were people trying to raise their families. According to Strathcona resident Austin Phillips’ interview in the book Opening Doors:

There was nothing but parties in Hogan’s Alley – night time, anytime, and Sundays all day. You could go by at 6 or 7 o’clock in the morning, and you could hear jukeboxes going, you hear somebody hammering the piano, playing the guitar, or hear some fighting, or see some fighting, screams, and everybody carrying on. Some people singing, like a bunch of coyotes holler – they didn’t care what they sounded like just as long as they was singing.

What could’ve been Vancouver’s long-standing African Descent community was never destined to be. Unfortunately, many (read upper-class white) Vancouver residents didn’t like the reputation that Hogan’s Alley gained as a slum, nor did they do anything to help improve the situation. Instead, the City of Vancouver (the City) engaged in a slow displacement, or “slum-clearance” of this neighbourhood. The first effort dated back to the early 1930s, where the City declared the area from Dunlevy to Clark an industrial area, forbidding mortgages or home improvements, effectively leaving the neighbourhood to deteriorate.

The City continued its slum-clearance, shifting to the term “urban renewal.” The intent of these efforts was to ensure that valued land was efficiently used, of course, value meant strictly monetary and no consideration was made toward what the area actually meant to the residents. With the increased use of cars and migration to suburban areas, Leonard Marsh proposed an Urban Renewal plan which subsequently led to the “Vancouver Redevelopment Study,” that would see a freeway system connecting Vancouver’s waterfront/downtown core with the suburbs. As the ageing Georgia Viaduct would need extensive renovation and areas cleared to make way for this, Hogan’s Alley, was once more targeted. The whole area – Strathcona and Chinatown – was slated for clearance to make way for an 8 lane freeway. After six years of struggle from residents opposed to this project, the Urban Renewal project was abandoned, but not before the new Georgia Viaduct was approved and built right over Hogan’s Alley. 

The name all but disappeared from Vancouver’s memory until the turn of the twentieth century when people such as writer and poet Wayde Compton revived it through the Hogan’s Alley Memorial Project. Organizations, such as the African Descent Society BC and Hogan’s Alley Society are striving to deliver the area back to its original community.

The People

Zenora Ross Hendrix
Zenora (Nora) & Ross Hendrix
Bertran Philander Ross Hendricks was born of a free black mother and white grain dealer in Urbana, Ohio in the difficult post-Civil War era in the United States. As life was difficult for those of either mixed race or African heritage, Bertran decided to make his way to Chicago in 1896 - changed his name to the now eponymous Hendrix - and made a life for himself there. He became a special police officer, but entertainment beckoned him and so he joined a traveling vaudeville troupe.

Zenora “Nora” Rose Moore, was born in Georgia in 1883 to a Cherokee-African mother and a freed slave father. Her parents relocated to Tennessee, where Nora was raised. Together with her sister, Nora joined a traveling vaudeville troupe as a chorus girl/dancer.

Nora and Bertran met on the road and traveled together as part of the same Dixieland vaudeville troupe. After financial difficulties brought the troupe to an end in 1912, the young couple traveled to Vancouver looking for work. He found work at the American Club, and with a gainful employment, they could settle and start a family. The Hendrix’s settled at 827 East Georgia, and raised four children (their fifth passed away at two months of age), all of whom were born in Vancouver.
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Saloons existed before Vancouver did. With the concentration of single men working in British Columbia through the lumber industry or the gold rush, it’s no surprise that British Columbia was one of the wettest (liquor-friendly) provinces in Canada, with saloons having the ability to run 24 hours a day. As time passed and the century turned, British Columbians seemed to have had enough of the debauchery and voted for Prohibition in 1917. It only lasted until it was put to a referendum and ended in 1921. On the other hand, prohibition in the United States lasted from 1919 until 1933. 

The end of Prohibition did not mean that everything was to revert back to 1916 laws. The BC government implemented laws that stated liquor could only be bought at government liquor stores or private clubs. Another referendum in 1924 made it so that beer could be sold in bars, and beer parlours were allowed in 1925. Wine and hard liquor were still illegal to sell in bars and this led to the creation of “bottle clubs,” where patrons could bring their own booze by “sneaking it in” and hiding it under the table. Even when the government finally allowed public sale of hard liquor by legalizing cocktail lounges in 1954, many cabarets decided to stay as bottle clubs well into the 1960s since the laws were very stringent and very few licenses were actually given out.

 

How does this relate to Vancouver’s African Descent History? 

Music has always been a central part of African culture, and Blacks were able to capitalize on this during the Prohibition era. When people went out to be social, they wanted to have some form of entertainment. As beer parlours were limited to only selling alcohol and could not provide entertainment, cabarets began popping up, offering live music and dancing. One such place was the Patricia Café, attracting its clientele with a new genre of music out of the United States called Jazz. George Paris is credited for having introduced it to Vancouver. Other jazz players from the States such as Jelly Roll Morton were recruited to play at the Patricia, and thus it became a hotbed for music.

With the advent of bottle clubs and speakeasies, many African Descent owned businesses emerged and flourished. Places like the New Delhi cabaret and Harlem Nocturne became mainstays of the bottle club culture, and restaurants like Vie’s Chicken and Steak doubled as speakeasies. It was well known at the time that many houses around Union Street and Hogan’s Alley were running some kind of liquor operation.

Businesses became so dependent on this Prohibitionist culture that it was thought some would not survive without it. Once such example came from John Teti, a long-time club owner that was made to apply for a liquor licence:

In late ’68 or 1969 we were so successful the cops phoned me up and said ‘Look, you’ve got to get a liquor licence.’

So I negotiated with them. I said ‘You know what? I’ll get a liquor licence, but if you try to force Vie’s Steak House (a Strathcona institution) to get a liquor licence, you’re putting them out of business.

And if you force the On-On Tea Garden to get a liquor licence, you’ll put them out of business. So I will apply for a liquor licence if you leave those two alone — and they did.

The Places

Beatty Lane
Harlem Nocturne
Owned by entertainment couple Ernie King and Marcella “Choo Choo” Williams, King decided to open his own club when he had a hard time finding anywhere else to perform with his band. Harlem Nocturne was Vancouver’s only African Descent owned nightclub. It opened in 1957 and shut its doors in 1968. In its short duration, it was known for amazing live jazz. Famous artists like Ike Turner performed there; there were burlesque performances and lots of dancing. As the club didn’t have a liquor license, it functioned as a bottle club, and having African Descent owners, it was subject to many police raids.

Further Exploration

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